How to Transport a Washing Machine

A washing machine looks like a solid box, but it is one of the easiest appliances to damage in a move. The drum hangs on springs and shock absorbers, the hoses hold water long after the last cycle, and a front-loader weighs between 130 and 220 pounds with most of that weight in a concrete counterweight. Moved carelessly, a washer can leak on your floors, crack a hose, knock the drum off its suspension or dent a staircase on the way down.

Here is how to prepare, move and reinstall a washing machine properly — whether you do it yourself or have movers handle it.

What you need

• The transit bolts (shipping bolts) that came with the machine, or a replacement set for your model
• A wrench or socket to install them
• Towels and a shallow tray or bucket
• Tape and zip ties for the hoses and cord
• A moving blanket and stretch wrap
• An appliance dolly with straps — not a regular hand truck

Step 1: Run an empty cycle and let it dry

A day or two before the move, run a short hot cycle with no clothes and a little vinegar or washer cleaner. It cleans the drum and removes residue. Leave the door or lid open afterwards so the drum dries — a washer closed while damp for several days in a truck or storage will smell of mildew.

Step 2: Turn off the water and disconnect

Unplug the machine. Turn off both water taps behind it. Place towels and a tray under the connections, then unscrew the inlet hoses from the taps and let them drain into the tray. Lower the drain hose into the tray or a bucket to empty it. A surprising amount of water stays in the hoses and pump; drain as much as you can.

On front-loaders, most models have a small filter door at the bottom front with a drain tube. Open it over a tray to empty the pump and filter. It is also a good moment to clean the filter.

Step 3: Install the transit bolts

This is the most important step and the most often skipped. Transit bolts lock the drum to the frame so it cannot swing on its springs during transport. Without them, the drum can hit the housing or damage the suspension every time the truck brakes or turns.

The bolts screw into the back of the machine, usually three or four of them. If you no longer have them, the manufacturer or an appliance parts supplier can provide a set for your model; the model number is on a label inside the door or on the back. Top-loaders generally do not use transit bolts, but the tub should still be kept from swinging: some manufacturers recommend a foam block or a folded towel between the tub and the housing — check your manual.

Step 4: Secure the hoses, cord and door

Coil the inlet hoses and put them in a bag inside the drum, or tape them to the back. Tape the drain hose and the power cord to the side or back of the machine so they cannot catch on anything. Tape the lid or door closed, or secure it with stretch wrap, so it cannot swing open on the dolly.

Step 5: Wrap and move it upright

Wrap the machine in a moving blanket and stretch wrap to protect the finish and the walls. Tilt it slightly back onto an appliance dolly, strap it on, and move it upright. Washers should be transported upright — laying them on their side or back can stress the suspension and let residual water reach places it should not.

On stairs, take it one step at a time with one person below guiding and one above controlling the dolly. Never let the machine slide down a staircase on its own weight. In Montreal plexes with narrow or outdoor staircases, measure first: a washer is usually about 60 centimetres wide and deep, but a door frame or a turn at a landing can be tighter than that.

Step 6: Load it properly

In the truck, place the washer upright against the front wall or a solid piece of furniture, and strap it so it cannot slide or tip. Do not stack heavy items on top of it. If a dryer is travelling too, the two can stand side by side, strapped together.

Stacked washer-dryer units

Stacked units must be separated before the move. The dryer usually sits on a stacking kit bolted to the washer; remove the kit, lift the dryer off with two people, and move the two machines separately. Reinstall the stacking kit at the new home before putting the dryer back on top.

Reinstalling the washer

1. Remove the transit bolts before connecting anything. Running a washer with the bolts in can seriously damage it. Keep the bolts in a bag taped to the back for your next move.
2. Check the floor. The washer must stand level on a solid floor; adjust the feet until it does not rock.
3. Connect the inlet hoses to the hot and cold taps, hand-tight plus a quarter turn, and check the washers inside the hose ends. Old rubber hoses are a common source of leaks; replacing them with braided hoses is inexpensive.
4. Place the drain hose in the standpipe or sink and secure it so it cannot jump out during the spin.
5. Turn the water on slowly and look for drips.
6. Run a short empty cycle and watch the connections and the floor around the machine.

Gas and electric dryers

A dryer often moves with the washer. Electric dryers need to be unplugged and have their vent duct removed; clean the lint from the duct while you are at it. Gas dryers must be disconnected and reconnected by a certified technician — a gas connection is not a do-it-yourself job.

When to let movers handle it

Washers and dryers are heavy and awkward, and most damage happens on stairs. Our crews move appliances every day, with appliance dollies and straps, and we protect the stairs and door frames before anything comes down. We can disconnect and reconnect standard washers; we coordinate gas appliances with a technician. See specialty moving for appliances and other heavy items, or ask for a quote for your whole move with local moving.